Leaving the state of Texas is no easy endeavor. With almost a thousand miles between the fairly central city of Austin and my next destination of Albuquerque, NM, I used good sense and broke the drive in two, with an overnight stop in El Paso, TX, about eight hours north-west. I was ready for just about anything, and with three weeks of incredible memories in the catalyst that was Austin in my back-pocket, my mindset was at a place where a long drive is just what I wanted. The curiosity to explore and discover something new would begin to creep resulting in a few incredible, completely impromptu and in the moment stops along the way to the deserts of New Mexico.
Needless to say the first leg was exactly as expected, boring. Smooth driving through the flats of the state where everything is bigger. Everything but the wineries, not something you’d probably associate with this state right? But vineyards and boutique wine shops can be found along the outskirts of Austin, en route to I-10 westbound. Thankfully we’re amidst a pandemic otherwise noon and on vacation would be a perfect time for vino.
I stick to the plan at hand though and after a second stop at the pump the glorious Giulia continues to chuck along the two lane interstate (at a safe speed). Shout out to all the truckers out there keeping the roads safe, your brilliance in understanding traffic flow is a service to all drivers out there. Thank you for avoiding the drag racing with your fellow truckers on a two lane highway and thank you for staying out the fast lane. Vrrrooommm…
Its just a couple hours short from sunset when I arrive at El Paso. Immediately the Giulia and I are amidst hundreds of other cars on a five lane highway leading into the heart of this border town. “Rush hour still exists here” I think to myself in mild annoyance. The amount of billboards, shopping strips, chains and local restaurants alike is overwhelmingly impressive. With an empty stomach and a thirst that needs to be quenched all these options quickly become oppressive. A little bit of luck strikes and after a wrong turn and quick wits, I am at the best burger joint in town. With an empty outdoor patio and the sunset as the backdrop (and a major road with a constant stream of cars) I’m in for a treat. We are in Texas after all and the beef here is world-class. I order the toro burger with a cold brew. The order comes with fries, a conversation about the local culture and a side of ten digits followed with a resurgence in confidence.
Turns out is not uncommon to live in Ciudad Juarez, MX, across the border (Rio Grande), and work here in El Paso, TX USA. What a great concept and how insignificant imaginary boundaries are when we do what we gotta do. After a delightful meal and a stuffed stomach, I check into my overnight tiny garage turned into a cottage; tasteful, comfortable and with everything you need for an overnight stay in this pit stop town. The plan is to get an early rise tomorrow and get on with the shorter second leg. There are some state parks and national monuments along the scenic route (always take the scenic route yo). Excitement makes it hard to sleep but I find myself comfortably at peace with all the chaos occurring outside me and sleep takes over me.
El Paso looks even better during the day. The jagged, dark-brown rocky mountain ranges make for a dramatic backdrop to the endless shopping strips and highways. After visiting the local state park (and intimidated by the amount of warning signs) I get back on the interstate and continue the ascension to New Mexico.
The weather is cool on this early October day yet the sun rays will bake anything that remains exposed for too long. To thrive in the desert takes tenacity and generations of evolution. A few hours and one DHS checkpoint later, I arrive at the White Sand Dunes National Monument. Ever heard of it? Me neither, but it looks cool on Maps and I got nothing but time so lets check these dunes out.
From a historical perspective, these dunes used to be an expansive lake featuring a diverse wildlife and fauna. Now these dunes are a playground for families, Hollywood movies (hello Transformers) and missile launches (of course). The sand is the whitest I have ever seen; the sand is so white that the sun reflecting off it makes the ground look like a disco ball. The sand will indirectly burn you if you are not careful. I’m prepared, however, with plenty of stuff to cover myself, water to quench my inevitable thirst, and, a pear, because I somehow have a green pear with me.
Pretending to be a buffalo solider I begin to trek deeper into the dunes. You can see at the low points shrubs and green things alive and well so the desert must not be completely dry. The mountain ranges in the background and the deep blue sky will make anyone fall in love with this harsh place. Making your way up and down the dunes requires skill, hills two to four stories high with sand moving underneath your feet makes climbing up and over them very arduous. Fear begins to tap me on the shoulder; “you’re gonna get lost with no service, you’re gonna pass out and die of thirst, you haven’t eaten anything today”. Thank God for that one pear though I felt like a video game character being revitalized to full health (insert power-up sound effect).
As I sit and enjoy this thirst quencher deliciousness of a fruit, off into the distance is a vague resemblance of what appears to be a tree, perhaps a really tall bush? It’s hard to make out exactly as the sand makes the desert appear foggy to the eye. With my energy revitalized, I grab fear by the ear and tell em, “listen here, dear fear, there’s no need for you here, so, stay clear and let me steer; you hear?”.
I follow the footsteps from those adventurers that came before me and continue the trek into the desert. A couple of vehicles made their way through here once before so if I pass out surely someone will bump into me, unless the vultures and ants get to me first. “No” I remind myself, “Not here dear”.
Becoming familiar with the ways of the sand I recognize other steps beyond my fellow humans. The animals that do live here, lizards, ants and beetles, have their steps recorded by the dunes, showing me how to effectively climb these hot shifting sands with little effort. Up and down, and, up and down again, I get into a stride and the two dozen or so dunes that were in front of me quickly decrease in numbers.
As I creep up and over the last dune it becomes clear what has lead me here; water. And seemingly a lot of it. I begin to descend onto the territory of this living thing which has created a well of water by making a valley in these dunes. Underneath my feet is enough water to keep this living thing alive and affecting it’s environment. In the middle of this valley rests, a bush. There are actually two bushes. One of the two though is simply majestic in its stature and will to live, sitting atop a column of hard compacted sand three stories tall. The bush has extracted all the water around this valley and has protected its root system from the dryness of the desert by protecting it with cool reflective sand. How brilliant is nature?
This bush is so tall it’s now providing me with ample shade from the harshness of the sun which is now at its peak. I can see part of the root system as they have become exposed from the times in the dunes. I take a seat under the shade and absorb gentle harshness of the desert. There is a cool breeze which dries my sweat and pulls me into a place of relaxation.
Satisfied with life as an explorer I begin my return to the Glorious Giulia and with some planning (a stick in the sand became the marker for how to get back, which actually worked) I make it back safely and back on the road with a few more hours before sundown.
This pivotal drive and sixteen hour drive became a highlight in the reels that have become this road trip across the USA. Another moment where nature made its mark on my impression. A reminder also to be prepared for life, to continue to persevere no matter how dry or wet, and, to live with curiosity and wonder for there are bucket loads of rewards for us courageous enough to tame the screams of fear.
